I got the little job done for the lab at the college. That would be the parts in the top photo. If they had a better selection of tools at the school I would have done it there. Just easier to do it at the house.
The bottom photo is the start on the battery box for the trials bike. I'm going to make it so the battery comes out the side rather than out the top. That'll allow me to mount it right under the seat which will give me some more room to slide the rear fender forward.
I figured out what year the slant six motor is - 1966 according to the casting number on the side of the block. There are a few numbers stamped into a machined section on the top of the block but I haven't been able to figure out what they mean. I don't think there are too many or any differences on the 225 blocks from the sixties, so I should be OK calling it a '66. I checked out Rock Auto for some prices and availability of parts. Looks like everything I'll be needing they have. In fact, they have options for most of the parts in different price ranges. I'm going to look up a few of the parts using several different years and see if the part numbers are the same to make sure I get what I need first time out. I've never ordered from this outfit before - might not this time either. But I'll have some part numbers and prices to compare with what I can get locally.
The first order of business will be to make some plates to bolt on to the side of the block for motor mounts. I've got a plan coming together as to what I'm going to build. Regardless of what I finally decide, I'll probably use the round rubber mounts between the frame and the motor. They're easy to come by and cheap - Speedway sells a pair for $20.00. Once I get the plates that bolt to the block, I'll get it painted and start the assembly process. Should be fun trying to figure out what goes where when I open up all the boxes of parts.
2 comments:
A slant six may have two different numbers stamped on the block. Not to be confused with casting numbers. One set is on the top of the deck under the #1 spark plug (front). Could be a serial number at this location. If it's been decked heavily, it might be blank.
Also look on the same side, under the #6 spark plug on the side. To the left of the oil filter looking from the pass. side. This might have a partial VIN from the car it was in.
Some cars had cast cranks, some forged. Some blocks have a different number of freeze plugs.
Some codes will indicate that a car was overbored .020" on the cylinders, some were .010 under on the crank bearings, and some were both. Damn machinists.
The gusset on the back of the starter boss may be straight or tapered, this can indicate a year range as well.
The casting number on mine indicates it is from 1966. There's also another set of casting numbers on the same side of the block - I've got no idea what those indicate. The machined surface on top of the block: B 225 8 09. Obviously the 225 is the displacement, I think the 8 09 indicate the month and day. The machinist I got the engine from came up to the same conclusion I did. I think this one has a forged crank but I haven't taken it out of the bag to look at it closely yet. .030" overbore on the cylinders, crank journals are stock.
Regardless, I've got another project. I'm not making any rash promises but this should be the last big project I undertake. Finish what I've got will be the mantra going forward.
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