Wednesday, August 5, 2020

Another Day in Paradise



I welded in a pour spout on the lead pot I made a while back. I was going to just pound it in, old school blacksmith style but I figured I could weld it in just as easy or easier. I cut a 1 x 1 angle at an angle, traced around it on the pipe, cut the notch out, welded in the angle and then cut it to length. Makes for a pretty fancy lead pot. Now I'm ready to make some lead soldiers and cast a few round balls. I've got a black powder percussion pistol I haven't shot in years that I'd like to use again. It's really a pain in the ass to shoot but since I've got more time now, might be nice to put a few rounds through it. I don't know how they ever fought a war with those things as long as it takes to reload.


I drug out the stock distributer that came with the slant-six. I'm still kicking around the idea of getting an electronic one but they should both fit in the same hole. The distributer almost fits in the space between the block and the frame rail. It would need some additional room to allow for the engine to rock a bit on the mounts. However, the vacuum advance points directly at the frame rail when it is properly oriented with the block. I can notch and box the frame for the needed clearance on the distributer easily and safely but there's no easy way to make clearance for the vacuum advance. Removing it is an option. I sent my brother from a different mother an e-mail about doing just that. I'll see what he says. Maybe get started on the motor mounts in the meantime. Maybe diddle with one of the bikes. No shortage of things to play with it.

2 comments:

Surly said...

Can't you just mount the vacuum can remotely? Or is the business end of it a mechanical device? Maybe it can be converted to weights and springs? On my Harley, it has a vacuum retard device. It stays at full advance and, under load, it will retard a few degrees.

Shop Teacher Bob said...

It has a centrifugal advance in addition to the vacuum advance. To move the vacuum can would require having the actuator arm turn a 90 degree corner which could conceivably be done with some kind of bell crank. I was thinking about making a spacer to raise the distributor up about 3". That would require a bit of tricky machine work but do-able. I'm still weighing my options.